05 luglio 2008
     
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Fresh Truffles
The known species of truffles are numerous and a complete list would be difficult to put together.
The two largest categories that separate the finest truffle are the WHITE TRUFFLE (Tuber Magnatum Pico) and the BLACK TRUFFLE (Tuber Magnatum Vitt).
The White Truffle category includes the following types:

WHITE TRUFFLE (Tuber Magnatum Pico) can be found in various sizes, going from a few grams to, generally a few hundred grams. Some rare exemplary may reach 1 Kg. and even 1.5 kg., and ten and more inches in length.
The fine White Truffle must be consumed in a very short time because its very delicate and perishable. (one week from the moment it was picked.
Truffle hunting begins early in October to the early days of January. Already during the month of July, the first tubers can be found but they don’t have the fragrance and quality of the ones picked during the following months. Using the “tartufai” (truffle Hunters) slang, these truffle are called “Marcia”, they have little perfume and the quality is “poor”. The high price of truffle, however, conducts “truffle hunters” to excavate also the poorer tuber, despite the law prohibits it , interrupting that way, the complete development of the truffle itself.
It is, anyway between the end of October and the entire month of November that the sought after “fine White Truffle” reaches its optimum ripe point, and to prove it is the quality and the particular perfume and unforgettable aroma that the truffle excavated during that time lets free for the appreciation of connoisseurs. As described above, the White Truffle is the most rare of all, the most sought after by all gourmets chefs. It has an intense and characteristic perfume, should be consumed raw and will turn any dish into a precious dish..
To appreciate and savour the White Truffle in all of its delicacy, it could be added even to the simplest dishes of our table: excellent on white butter rice, or on canapés, simply spread butter or mascarpone and grate some white truffle on. Delicious on “veal scaloppine”, or even on simple tagliolini, in any way you present them, enriched by a generous grated truffle. Heavenly good is also a White Truffle omelette.

BIANCHETTO TRUFFLE OR MARZAIOLO (Tuber Albidium or Borchii Vitt).
Is harvested from January to April in the same zones that the fine White truffle is found, It has a rounded form, it is never larger than an egg. Its perfume is slightly similar to its cousin, the White Truffle, and its taste is pleasant.
Like the White Truffle, it is used raw, grated on all preparations to which you want to give that delicious flavor flavor.


The “black truffles” category includes the following types:

TUBER MELANOSPORUM VITT. – Fine black truffle.
It’s ripe point is between November-December to March. It perfume and color develop during the course of the year. Its flesh is off white at first (September), then grayish (october), turning darker in November, brown- purple and finally black-purple at its ripe point. The pulp presents thin white veins with shades of reddish color. When the colors reach the maximum intensity, its flavor is also at its best.
The “fine Black Truffle” has a fruity aromatic perfume, pleasant and uncommon, not too intense. Its taste is exquisite and delicate. Can be used raw on any dishes, but it will also give its best qualities when cooked: in stuffing, pates, with partridges, phaesants, on beef carpaccio, on all tipes of pasta and in sauces. It is used in all international cuisines In stuffings, terrines…

TUBER AESTIVUM VITT. Summer truffle or “Scorzone”.
It is brought to consumption from June to October. It is very similar to the “fine black truffle”. It has a strange crust of black color, with “verruca” of a brown color. Its flesh Tends towards bronze with numerous tiny veins that disappear at cooking. It has a light, sweet perfume , slightly tending to the “mushroom”. Its taste is delicate and very pleasant. It is mainly used in the production of pates, salami, wrapped in foil dishes, We suggest to use it heat in olive oil and a garlic clove.
Can be preserved in the refrigerator in air tight containers.



Truffles search is done by the so called “TARTUFAI”; they are for the most part, retired persons, or farmers and, in any event people who live in that particular area of the country, and knows (and jealously keeps the secrets) where the truffles grow.
Their job is made of fatigue and sacrifice, and plenty of little secrets; the search happens almost always at night, with the help of flash lights, in thick damped woods, , on rough terrains, thorn brambles , always following their specially trained dogs.
Even if some of the searchers, by their long experience, are able to find truffles without the precious help of a dog, the excavation of it needs the indispensable help of a well trained dog. Truffles dogs training starts at the age of 4 to 5 months and follows then antic methods of the experienced “tartufai”. A well trained dog could cost as much as several thousand dollars.
In the evening, the “crop” is brought directly to the reseller (one that is trusted), who will diffuse the precious tuber on the market, either directly or under the form of special and high gastronomic prepartions, still produced to day following antic methods .

Bibliography: San Miniato città del tartufo – FM edizioni.


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