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Extra-virgin olive oil Selection
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The best extra-virgin oil comes from the wise olives mixture produced by the three most important tuscan olive trees cultivation: "Frantoio", "Leccino" and "Moraiolo". Olives are picked by hand directly from the tree and this allows to produce a richer oil in vitamins, nutritive elements and with a long preservation. Olives must be brought immediately to the oil mill to be pressed.
Big granite wheels convert the olives into a uniform dough which is afterwards cold-pressed. After having separated the water from the oil by means of the centrifugal force, the pure extra-virgin olive oil is filtered through cotton wool in order to be clarify and cancel all small deposits which could lead to a unstable preservation. The achieved oil from this pressing has a golden yellow colour with some greenish glints. It is quite light but tasty, with an intense fruity olive scent. The slight pepery sensation you can taste at the end of your palate and the light bitter aftertaste are the basic features of an oil produced with olives picked by hand when they are not extremely mature. The sourness level is very low, usually lower than 0,3%, much lower than the 1% imposed by the european provisions to determine a good exrta-virgin oil.
The tuscan extra-virgin pure olive oil is perfect to be used to cook, but above all it is excellent on salads and on all those meals requiring raw oil. The typical use, which allows to appreciate and value appropriatey an extra-virgin oil, is the so called "fettunta" (slice of bread with a little spoon of raw oil on it) or the "bruschetta" (toasted bread with extra-virgin olive oil, garlic and a bit of salt). Also the "pinzimonio" (season raw vegetables with extra-virgin pure olive oil, salt and pepper) is an excellent solution to test the oil quality level. Thanks to its high concentration, you need just a little amount in order to appreciate every sort of meal.
Together with giving value to a superior flavouring, for its peculiar features, which fit perfectly every age, the pure olive oil represents a genuine "biological conquest", transmitted through the ages by our ancestors. The olive oil is one of the classic product belonging the mediterranean people property, who recognized its specific nutritional properties, sanitary, preventive and curative. The olive oil gains an even wider appreciation among nutritional doctors for its feature to prevent heart diseases and some kinds of cancer. Since some time the scientific community has found out how low is the impact of this sort of deseases on the mediterranean population.
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Olive Oil history
Scientists tell us, the exact place where the olive tree sprung for the first time is the greater Mediterranean Basin.
The first cultivation of the olive tree worldwide took place in Greece, and more specific in Crete.
This happened about 3500 BC in the Early Minoan times. In this period the olive tree was in a wilder form in comparison to the tree we know today.
After 2000 BC the cultivation of the olive tree in Crete was very intense and systematic playing the most important role on the island's economy. From Crete started the first export of the olive oil not only in mainland Greece but in Northern Africa and Asia Minor as well.
Very soon the cultivation passed to mainland Greece and the olive tree and its blessed product, the olive oil became synonyms of the Greek nutrition through centuries. The Mycenaean civilization (c.1600-1150 BC) followed the Minoan in mainland Greece. The olive oil production was very important in the economy of this society. The decipherment of the "Linear B" script brought to light valuable information about the production, the commerce and the export of the olive oil in Mycenaean Greece as we can see in the palace records of Mycenae and Pylos.
In the 6th century BC, Solon, the great Athenian legislator, drafted the first law for the protection of the olive tree excluding the uncontrolled felling. The olive tree was a symbol in ancient Greece and the olive oil was used not only for its valuable nutritional quality but also for medical purposes.
Between the 7th and 3rd centuries BC ancient philosophers, physicians and historians undertook its botanical classifications and referred to the curative properties of olive oil. This knowledge is being "rediscovered" today as modern scientists research and find news why the Mediterranean diet is so healthy.
The symbolic meaning of the olive tree as well as the exceptional value of the olive oil is visible in overall sectors of the ancient Greece's life. A number of facts show to us the relationship between the olive tree and its product with some social activities.
It is characteristic that when the first Olympic Games took place in Olympia in 776 BC an olive-tree branch was the award to the winners symbolizing the armistice of any hostility and the peace.
This symbolic award was given to winners until the end of the ancient Olympic Games. However, not only an olive-tree branch was the award in games but the product itself.
The most impressive example of the value of the olive oil was its use at the Panathenaic Games. These games took place every four years with the occasion of Athens' most important celebration, the Panathenea, in honor of the goddess Athena. The winners of the athletic games delivered as an award olive oil putted in amphorae known as the "Panathenaic Amphorae".
The amphorae itself, constituted the quality of the already certified product; this is the very first example of product certification in world history.
The quantities of the delivered olive oil to the winners were huge. For example, depending on sport, the first winner could take as award a quantity in about 5 tons. As a matter of fact, such as a quantity could not be consumed by the winner only. Taking into account that the legislation in Athens excluded the export of the olive oil but this concession was given only to winners of the Panathenaic Games we can easily imagine how rich, any winner became.
During Classical period when Athens reached the peak of its power, the Greek olive oil was exported throughout the known world and as it is normal the greatest merchants were the Athenians winners of the Panathenaic Games.
When Romans occupied Greece, the olive oil production continued and Romans were able to learn the secrets of cultivation.
During Byzantine times things did not change. The production of the olive oil in Greek territories was significant because of the vast size of the Empire. The Empire itself included almost half of the olive oil productive areas in the known world and the product was exported throughout the world.
Large part of the total production was the work of the monks due to the big areas possessed by the monasteries. When Turks conquered Greece the production of olive oil was not affected. The product itself kept alive inter alias the traditional way of life of the Greek nation and was even used for religious purposes.
During this time the olive tree and its oil had a special position in the Christian Orthodox church; it was a symbol of love and peace, an essential part of several solemn rites, from the service of baptism to the oil lamps used in churches and the little shrine that is part of every Greek household.
Undoubtedly, a great part of the total production belonged to the Turkish Government, but the rest remained in Greek hands as well as the "know how".
After the liberation, the olive tree areas were separated into two areas according to the Greek law: the private properties (those areas which belonged to Greeks during the Turkish occupation), and the national areas (those areas which belonged to the Turks respectively).
From this time until today, Greece became the world's most important exporter of qualitative olive oil.
The love and high esteem of the Greek olive-grower for the olive tree is passed on from generation to generation and from family to family. With the birth of a child an olive tree is planted which will grow and develop along with the child. When the child starts school at the age of six, the olive tree is ready to produce its fruit. The blessed tree grows up with the family, only it will have a much longer life and will still be around to be tended by the next generation, and the one after that. Each year, it yields its annual crop of olives in return for the labor and love expended on it.
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EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL IN FLORENCE - A YOUNG PRODUCT WITH A LONG HISTORY
The olive, native to Asia Minor, spread to the whole of the Mediterranean basin, approximately 6000 years ago. according to Pliny the olive tree was brought to Italy by the Greeks at the time of Tarquinius Priscus, although the Etruscans had been cultivating it since the sixth century BC. The Romans greatly stimulated the production and trade of olive oil, using it liberally on a daily basis. The fall of the Roman Empire led to the near disappearance of the cultivation of olives. Centuries later, thanks to the labours of certain monastries, which included the Benedictines and the Cistercians, the olive groves survived and cultivation recommenced.
On the many legends surrounding the history of the olive is a greek myth which ascribes the creation of the olive to a dispute between Athena and Poseidon about who would build a temple on Acropolis. Jupiter, called upon as judge to settle the dispute, decided that the honour should go to the one who succeeded in creating something truly indispensable to man. Poseidon invented to horse, and Athena the olive. Jupiter voted Athena the winner.
The cultivation of olives in Tuscany, especially in the region of Florence, was promoted by the Medicis who favoured the transfer of woody hillside land to the Communes, with the conditions that the land should then be rented, at minimal cost, to whoever would transform it to olive groves and vineyards. This gave birth to what is now the typical Tuscan landscape surrounding Florence.
The olive and its oil are inextricably linked to the peasant culture and to the diet of the Mediterranean peoples, and have throughout their history, been used for numerous sacred and religious purposes. Olive oil, therefore, plays a significant role in the culture and history of the Mediterranean countries. It is more than 6000 years old, and at the same time it is young because its nutritional properties remain unchanged and unrivalled; the thousands of advantages it holds both for our healt and in food preparation can not be underestimated.
In the region of Florence, there are over 5 million olive trees registered, with an annual average of 66.000 quintal litres of oil produced in over 80 oil mills. The main varieties of the olive are the “frantoio”, the “moraiolo”, the “leccino”, and the “pendolino” which is used as a pollinator.
The harvest takes place in November. In order to retain the high quality of the oil, olives are hand picked, or picked with the help of special combs or other tools which cause the drupes to fall into nets or parachutes spread on the ground below. In the province of Florence, olives are not knocked down from the branches with stocks, nor are they picked off the ground, harvest methods which can lower the quality of the oil.
Prompt harvest, the cultivar, the processing of olives within 48 hours of harvest, and the methods of production all determine the quality and distinctive characteristics of the final product. The distinguishing features of florentine oils include: an accentuated vegetable bouquet; a strong taste with hereby hints and a trace of artichoke flavour; a piquant and slightly bitter aftertaste.
Classification of olive oil
As with all foods, including those containing olive oil, the denomination of the product should be clearly indicated on the label. The definitions and denominations of olive oil intended for human consumption can be sold on the market under one of the following, as prescribed by EC regulation 2568/91:
EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
Oil extracted from the olive solely by mechanical, or other physical means, which cause no alteration to the oil, and which have undergone no other treatment than the washing, decantation, centrifugation and filtration. Extra olive oil meets the highest standards of olive oil production. According to the EU regulation no. 2568/91, oil can be defined as extra virgin only if it respects a series of chemical parameters (in particular, the acidity of the oil must not exceed 1 %) and at the Panel Test * attains a score of 6.5 and above. (Currently, the law of the European Community allow a minimum vote of 5.5, tolerating a decrease of 1 point.).
VIRGIN OLIVE OIL
Obtained by the same methods of production as extra virgin olive oil must fall within the chemical and organoleptic parameters stipulated by rule 2568/91. The acidity level should not exceed 2 %, and at the Panel Test should obtain a rating of 5.5 or above (the law also allows for a minimum score of 4). This category of oil can be susceptible to organoleptic defects which could cause the oil to become unpleasant in smell and taste. Oil belonging to these two categories, extra virgin and virgin, are obtained exclusively by mechanical means in an oil mill, and can be sold directly from the producer.
OLIVE OIL
Olive oil obtained by industrial refining methods and blended with virgin olive oil, which improves its quality and renders it edible. The oil contains a high level of acidity, and various imperfections. The acidity level should not exceed 1,5 %. No organoleptic test if foreseen for this catedory oil.
SANSA (POMACE) OLIVE OIL
A blend of refined oils obtained from olive pomace by means of a solvent, together with virgin olive oil. The acidity level should not surpass 1,5 %. Also for this category, no organoleptic test in foreseen.
Controlled origin denomination of extra virgin olive oil
The olive oil sector is now also subject to controlled origin denomination. EU law regulates the classification Protected Origin Denomination (DOP) or Protected Geographic Indicator (IGP). A public or private body (whose name must appear on the label) certifies and guarantees, according to what is established by production regulations, that every stage of production (harvest, milling and pressing, bottling etc) takes place within the geographical zone indicated, and that the oil has been chemically analized and has undergone organoleptic tests.
The recognition of the denominations DOP and IGP by the laws of the European Community therefore assures the consumer of extra virgin olive oil an oil which corresponds to the chemical-physical parameters and organoleptic assessment. The consumer is guaranteed an oil of character of the highest quality.
Today, the denominations in Florence and her provinces are:
- DOP = Chianti Classico;
- IGP = Tuscan.
Extra virgin olive oil production
The producion cycle of extra virgin olive oil can be briefly summarized in the following 3 steps:
- harvest;
- extraction of oil from olive;
- storage.
The quality and quality of the final result depends not only on the olives themselves but also on these three stages of production.
The production of a quality extra virgin olive oil requires the olives to be picked directly from the plant, paying special attention mot to bruise or damage the fruit, and without postponing the harvest to a later time when the fruit darkens. Olives must be transported in well aired containers which prevent them from being crushed. Moreover, the fruitd must be taken for milling and extraction of the oil within 24 hours of being harvested.
Once they arrive at the oil mill, the ollives are washed throughly with drinking water and defoliated. They are then crushed to a paste using methods which facilitate the extraction of the oil from the fruit (frangitura and gramolatura – pressing and kneading). The chemical characteristics and organoleptic properties of the final product depends not only on the olives, but also on the mechanical systems used for the extraction of the oil, and the time and temperature needed for each stage of the production process. These factors also have an impact on the resistance of the oil against ageing.
To safeguard the quality of the oil, it is best stored in stainless steel containers, or in dark glass bottles. These containers should be stored at a temperature which does not exceed 10-20^C, and should be kept out of both the light and air, where possible. Observing these rules can prolong the life of the product.
A “best before” date is normally indicated on the label. Until that date, the product retains the chemical-physical and organoleptic requirement for which it was tested before bottling.
A brief guide to storing olive oil
DO:
- store it in a cool, dark place;
- keep it in a dark bottle;
- store it with the bottle closed and full.
DONT:
- expose it to heat or light;
- store it in a trasparent bottle;
- store it in a half-full, open bottle.
Chemical analysis
Below are the specificatios of some of the most common chemical analysis which determine the quality of extra virgin olive oil produced in oil mills:
- Acidity: the paramenter which serves to classify the market category of the oil, and assesses the presence and progress of hydrolitic phenomenon.
- Peroxides: help to indicate the state of conservation of the oil, with specific reference to rancidity. Oil can not be sold forconsumption if it contains ove 20 meq. 02/Kg .
- UV examination: if the value falls between K232, K270 and Delta K, this distinguished an olive oil (extra virgin) obtained by pressing, from a refined oil. These values also increase with the procees of oxidation of an oil, which, in the case of extra virgin olive oil, helps to assess the extent of its conservation.
- Fatty Acids: analisys of the acid composition of the oil is particularly important for etablishing the authenticity of the oil. The presence of fatty acids which are not normally found in extra virgin oilve oil, or a variation in the relationship between those normally found, reveals the addition of an oil with lesser nutritional values, or the presence of foreign fatty acids.
- Poliphenols and Tocopherols: prevent the natural oxidation process of the oil allow it to be conserved for a long time. They are important nutritional components of the oil. Polyphenols also affect the organoleptic characteristics of the oil, and their degradation is one of the causes of the change in taste of the oil through time.
Nutritional beneficts
Extra virgin olive oil has always been thought of as falling somewhere between food and medicine. Hippocrates himself recommended the juice of fresh olives as a cure for mental illnesses and poultices of macerated olives for ulcers. In antiquity, people used it to cure ailments, as a ointment to prevent spots and wrinkles, and to make their hair soft and shiny. Today, many people use it to ease thorns out from undert the skin, to treat stomach aches and to soften callouses. Olive oil plays a sundamental role in the field of cosmetics because of its affinity with the human skin and tissue.
Modern medicine has also started to give serious consideration to the healing properties of extra virgin olive oil.
In fact, the nutritional values of olive oil are so abudant that it is beneficial to people of all ages, including the young who are constantly searching for ways to stay fit and boots their energy levels. It contains vitamin E, a powerful antioxidant, which helps the body fight against free radicals regarded as one of causes of the ageing process of the body.
Also od great nutritional value is the presence of some unsaturated fatty acids which can not be produced by our organism, but are essential to our diet. The nutritional composition of olive oil is balanced in such a way that it comes close to satisfying the needs of the human organism.
This is why extra virgin oil is known to help prevent cardiovascular diseases, atherosclerosis, andthe risk of heart attack. It is especially vital for the elderly and for children because of its capacity to limit the loss of calcium, and suitable for young people with active sports’ lives as it acts as an energy supplement. It is easily digestible, and facilitates liver activity and regular intestinal functions.
Nutritional breakdown of extra virgin olive oil
Calories: 9 kcal/g 37 kj/g;
Cholesterol: none;
Vitamins E: 0,2 – 0,3 mg/g;
Total Fats: around 0,98g/g of which
- Saturated: 10-15%
- Monounsaturated: 70-80%
- Polyunsaturated: 5-8%.
The panel test
The Panel Test refers to a sensory analisys performed on the oil. It is conducted by a group of expert tasters who are nationally registered and operate through a public or private commission. Like the chemical analysis, the Panel Test has legalvalidity and was introduced using EC regulation 2568/91 to classify the commercial value of olive oil.
The Panel is composed of no less than 8 taster, and is coordinated by the Chief Taster. During each tasting session, every member of the commission expresses his/her own judgement on the samples examined (on average 4 or 5 samples per session) and fills an organoleptic chart for each oil. This chart records the positive and negative characteristics of the sample, and its intenity.
The tasting ritual is repeated at every session and at subsequent sessions the oil is heated to body temperature, the taster smells it several times to evaluate the olfactory features, and then tastes it to define the flavour in detail.
If the sensory analysis is to determine the commercial classification of the oil, the opinions are voived on the chart as per attachment XII to regulation 2568/91. Otherwise, if the oil has already been classified as extra virgin, and its quality is to be further examined, then a second form may be used for a more detailed evaluation of the positive features of the oil.
According to a universal law which regulates food tasting, every product must reflect its own origins in taste and smell: therefore, it is essential that olive oil reflects the taste and smell of the vegetable world to which it is bound.
SOURCE: Extra Virgin OLive Oil in Florence - Camera di Commercio Industria Artigianato ed Agricoltura di Firenze.
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